As the Baby Yoda coffee I need or kill you I will vintage shirt and I love this awesome all-Prodigy soundtrack and the sometimes spiked and dyed hair on the models indicated, this show was part tribute to that band’s frontman Keith Flint, who died in March. Before this evening’s show, Versace said: “I dedicate this collection to my old friend. He was disruption… and he performed right here the last time he was in Milan.” That was in 2004 when Flint told journalists, “Milan smells of sex and death. I like to bring the ugly to beauty.” Not satisfied—at least in that second sentence with sounding just like Miuccia Prada, he then proceeded to give a pre-show performance in which he simulated oral sex on one un-delighted audience member before licking the face of another. These are more sober times call it the Hadid age at the House of Versace, but while there may be less simulated sex on the runway, the upside is that there are arguably more really good clothes. The centerpiece of tonight’s Via Gesu show was a blackened sports car heaped with flowers made by ongoing Versace collaborator Andy Dixon it was a little hearse meets roadside shrine, and unsettling. This was a nod to the sports car prints, knits, and Lurex, and stud-defined shirting and pants that featured at the back end of the collection. Versace went so big on cars because, she said, “when a man becomes a man the first thing he wants is a car.” This also seemed a quiet aside to the memory of when her brother Gianni, then aged 19, convinced Donatella, then aged 11, to dye her hair blonde for the first time (which it has forever remained) before sneaking off to a Patty Pravo concert in a car stolen from their parents which broke down and was lost forever en route. This potential for willfully wild acts amidst boys just stepping into their manhood was reflected in the oversized suiting and fringed biker jackets sometimes worn over suiting that featured at the start of the show. The volumized silhouette ran through to a series of lip-smackingly tart acid tones Versace print jackets and silk shorts towards the end of it. Further, unlike in microeconomics, in macroeconomics spending does not represent a “depletion of wealth”, just a transfer of ownership of money, where that money still continues to exist in the same amount. In macroeconomics, any change in the level of wealth, including the depletion of wealth, we must account for by a direct accounting of what happens to the amount and type of the wealth. The quantity of the spending, that is the accounting of the total amount of gross spending and gross income is describing only the transfer of ownership of money. And we must keep that accounting on the “income axis”. Whereas the type and amount of changes in the level of wealth is kept track of on the “wealth axis”.
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Another lavishly classical Versace touch was the Baby Yoda coffee I need or kill you I will vintage shirt and I love this amphora prints and Lurex knits. Printed vintage Versace fragrance ads on t-shirts and denim were yet another archival flourish. There was a fun, provocative sensuality in the slightly kicky jersey pants worn below tailoring which came in black or leopard print and floral versions in vertical rib-knit, and a carefully thought through and Flint-inflected riff on post-punk in workwear pieces that smashed check against denim. The complementary women’s looks mostly legs-to-there Versace standard mind-melters added extra turbo boost to this high energy Versace outing. “Shine On You Crazy Diamond,” the Pink Floyd track from the Wish You Were Here album, surged, volume up, as Pierpaolo Piccioli ran out to take his bow after his Spring 2020 Valentino menswear show. Completely apt Piccioli really is fashion’s crazy diamond, an authentic modern-day hippie who follows his own instincts, whether they’re deemed fashionable or not, and has thereby charmed and swept everyone along on his trips to wherever. This time, it was to a place in his own head via the psychedelic porthole opened by ’70s prog-rock: “A fantastic journey into yourself, where you can find fantastic landscapes, and you don’t have boundaries,” he said. “When I was a kid, I was there, far from everything, and I want to keep that feeling when creating a collection because then you don’t limit your imagination.” There was a time when suburban boys in bedrooms everywhere would put their prog-rock albums on their record players and stare for hours at the album art, reading the meaning. That was Piccioli, for sure. One of the major delights at this grown-up successful stage of his life is that he can now not just meet his teenage heroes, but collaborate with them. This time he found Roger Dean, album cover artist of the ’70s, and asked him to make a comeback version of his airbrushed acid–sci-fi–impossible landscapes for this collection. Spending and wealth are certainly related and interact but they are still independent variables. They must be accounted for with a model with two degrees of freedom. I believe that all sorts of misunderstandings of macroeconomics have resulted from the attempt to combine wealth and income so that they are one variable with one degree of freedom. I am saying, that in order to describe the economy as it really is, we must have a model where income and wealth are accounted for by two variables, not one.